Grafschaft (County) of Wittgenstein
Background
Wittgenstein no longer exists as a political entity. The district by that name was joined to another to form what is now the Kreis (district) of Siegen-Wittgenstein in the federal Land (state) of Nordrhein-Westfalen (North Rhine-Westphalia). However, three towns within the district--Bad Berleburg, Bad Laasphe, and Erndtebrück--include almost all of the historical territory of Wittgenstein. The villages, hamlets and individual houses "out in the country" technically belong to one of the towns. Residents still identify strongly as Wittgensteiners.
Contents
Location
Wittgenstein lies east of the great city of Köln (Cologne) and north and slightly west of
Frankfurt. It is a mountainous area and relatively isolated. The district of Wittgenstein was less than 500 square kilometers
or less than 200 square miles in size as of its 1974 combination with Siegen.
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![]() State of North Rhine-Westphalia, with Siegen-Wittgenstein in the darker color . |
The Eder and Lahn rivers originate near and pass through Wittgenstein, and numerous smaller streams flow through the valleys. The Elsoff and Odeborn are the most important of these smaller streams.
Political History
More or less continuously since 1511, Wittgenstein was split into southern and northern parts. The first pair of brothers feuded and relations between cousins in later centuries varied from warm to lukewarm, but their fates were intertwined. The southern branch had its seat in the older town of Laasphe and was known as Wittgenstein-Wittgenstein (don't ask), while the northern branch had its seat in the poorer town of Berleburg and was known as Wittgenstein-Berleburg.
The original state of Wittgenstein and then the twin counties were members of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation. This meant that they were officially independent and autonmous. The Sayn-Wittgensteins could and did take on feudal obligations from larger states, but they had primary legal authority in their realm. For the first centuries of their rule, the Sayn-Wittgensteins faced certain other powers, and their subjects claimed certain ancient political and economic rights. The latter faded with the rise of what historians call princely absolutism.
The dreadful Thirty Years War (1618-1648) may have begun in Bohemia, but ravaged much of central Europe. Wittgenstein was not spared. In the relative peace that followed, the surviving rulers claimed ever greater authority over all aspects of life. Independent farmers or free men were virtually non-existent in Wittgenstein. A few of the ruling line, notably Graf Casimir (1687-1741), attempted to rule as enlightened despots, but they commanded an ever-increasing amount taxes and labor service from their subjects. They regulated how long a wedding festival could last and who could be invited. They set wages. They appointed the pastors. They charged a fee to anyone wishing to leave.
Not unlike many other small princes in the German states, the world of the Sayn-Wittgensteins came to an end with Napoleon's conquest of the Rhineland. Wittgenstein was incorporated into the French-run "Grand Duchy of Hesse" in 1806 and remained there through the Congress of Vienna in 1815. Like all empires, the French looted their new territories and pressed its sons into fighting its next campaigns.
The victorious powers set out to reverse Napoleon's dismantling of the aristocratic order, but did so to the advantage of the larger states. What had been more than 300 often-tiny states (such as Wittgenstein) emerged from the Congress of Vienna as a few dozen larger ones. Wittgenstein became part of the powerful state of Prussia, assigned eventually to the province of Westfalen. While the Sayn-Wittgensteins no longer had political sway, their palaces and land (valuable forests) remained their own. Just before the French moved in, the Emperor had elevated them from Counts to Princes.
The Prussian inspector sent to check out this new territory was astonished at the tax and labor burden carried by the peasants, but the King/Emperor just added more. One right the common people did have was to purchase the lands they had worked (often for centuries) from the Sayn-Wittgensteins. Feudal labor services finally came to and end. They were also free to emigrate, as many did throughout the 1800s. When asked their nationality, these emigrants would correctly say "Prussian", at least until 1871 when a unified German state under the rule of the King of Prussia emerged after Bismarck's wars.
A district of Wittgenstein survived until 1974. Villages such as Wunderthausen had their own Bürgermeister and a limited amount of local political authority. What happened in 1974 was an extensive re-organization of the political structure. It was then that Wittgenstein became part of a larger district, first called just Siegen and only later named Siegen-Wittgenstein. |
![]() Simple Wappen (arms) of the |
Social History
Industry began to develop in the towns by the late 1800s, but it was only after the second World War that the economy shifted from being predominantly agricultural. Villagers now commute to the surrounding towns for work. They still tend the hereditary land, but more as a hobby and for tax reasons than as a source of income.
Rudimentary public schools came into being in the 1700s. The emigrants of the mid-1800s were reasonably literate. Today only the largest villages still have their own schools.
The Counts of Wittgenstein converted to Protestantism soon after the Reformation in 1535. By the rules set down in the Peace of Westphalia which ended the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648), they had the absolute right to choose the religion of their subjects. They chose Calvinism in particular. Since World War II, a larger number of Catholics live in the area. The large majority remain Protestant (Evangelical in German). Today there are about 40 churches or chapels in the area of Wittgenstein; only six are Catholic.
During the 1700s, the Counts gave refuge to some religious minorities. These included Huguenots from France as well as Pietists. The best known of the latter lived at the village of Schwarzenau before moving on. They were the core of the Dunkards, an important sect within the movement of German Brethren.
Wittgenstein was also home to a small population of Jews. The first recorded mentions are from around 1640. They had a synagogue in Berleburg by 1730. It was destroyed during Kristalnacht in 1938 and the Jewish population was eventually deported and killed. The same fate awaited a population of Roma (Gypsies).
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Towns, Villages and Places
The town of Bad Berleburg also includes the following villages with a combined population of around 21,500:
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The community of Erndtebrück also includes these villages with a combined population of about 8,000:
- Balde
- Benfe
- Birkelbach
- Birkefehl
- Schameder
- Zinse
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Maps:
- A smaller map showing the principal towns, villages and rivers
- A really big map that will probably look lousy on screen. I suggest that you save it or print it. It comes from the definitive territorial history of Wittgenstein by Günther Wrede in 1927.
Links
- German Wikipedia article on Wittgenstein from around 1800 to the present.
- German Wikipedia article on the history of the Grafschaft.
- Site of the Wittensteiner Heimatverein (historical association)
- Working group for computer genealogy in Wittgenstein
- You may join a German language e-mail list focused on Wittgenstein genealogy at http://list.genealogy.net/mailman/listinfo/sayn-wittgenstein-l
- To join an e-mail list focused on Wittgenstein genealogy, send an e-mail with SUBSCRIBE as the subject to:
DEU-WITTGENSTEIN-L-request@rootsweb.com. This is not a very active list, but some members read English.

